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| I'm wondering if you have any timesaving tips on dematting? | | | Product and equipment is your best friend when it comes to dematting. At one time it was considered efficient to brush the tangles prior to bathing the pet, but the creation of superb products and tools has made it easier and painless for the pet and you.
The general rule of thumb is; if water can penetrate the coat, take the pet straight to the tub, washing with a high quality pet shampoo and conditioner. Most tangles are held together by debris caught on the barbs of the hair shaft. The shampoo will clean the fur removing dirt. The conditioner will smooth any barbs in the hair shaft making it much easier to run a brush through the coat.
Once the pet is toweled dry apply a detangling spray to the mat. Make sure you work it completely into the mat. Next use your high velocity dryer with the condenser nozzle. Use as much power as the pet will tolerate. Use a slow circling motion and you will see that mat start to break up or �spider web�. Work the air behind the tangled area to �push� the tangle out of the hair.
When you are finished with the high velocity dryer, place the pet on the table and use a fluff dryer or hand dryer to fluff out the coat, lightly brushing through any remaining mats. They should come out fairly easily. Use a rapid, soft, �pat-pull� brushing technique to remove the remaining tangles from the coat.
It is important that you take in to consideration �why� you are dematting the pet. Is it a small area? Was the pet just at the kennel and is normally not in that condition? Do you want to use this as a marketing ploy to establish a 4-6 week client? We certainly don�t suggest excessive dematting with each visit. If the pet comes in each time in this condition, the owner has three options; bring the pet in more frequently for professional groomings, learn to brush between grooming or learn to like the pet short. Always remember, humanity before vanity.
| | | | I hate to fluff dry! Is there any way to speed it up? | | | Fluff drying is a very important part to each groom to achieve a high quality result. This will “set” in straight hair allowing for a better trim and will keep the pet looking fluffier longer. Most of your fluffing can be accomplished with a high velocity dryer. After the majority of the moisture is removed by high velocity drying, remove the condenser nozzle holding the dryer right down to the skin. Make slow circular motions moving on to the next section only after each hair has straightened. After you have done each section of the pet with the nozzle off, use a fluff dryer or hand dryer. Lightly and rapidly brush directly where the warm airflow pointed. Think of the warm air and the brush as a curling iron, only you want the coat straight, not curly. Rapid, light brushing is the secret to getting the coat straight. Work systematically around the pet, dealing with sections of the coat that are still wavy or kinky. Use caution to the warmth of the airflow – it needs to be warm, not so hot it could burn the skin. Remember the head is the first thing that your client sees, so be sure to fluff that area before the coat gets too dry! | | | | How do you groom a dog that won’t be still? | | | Animals feed off your emotions and the atmosphere of your salon. It’s important that you are calm and the environment is as soothing as possible. Dogs need to be trained to stand quietly on the grooming table, just like all pets benefit from basic obedience. Unfortunately many owners do not understand this concept, making their pet uncooperative. Most owners know when they possess an unruly pet. This is where you come in, you are their problem solver. For training purposes, you many have to groom the pet in steps depending on how they tolerate it. For example, the first grooming appointment is a bath and fluff. The next appointment will be a bath, fluff and tidy up. You will add more to the groom as the pet can handle it. Remember, always end it on a good note and stay consistent. The owner will be thrilled that you took the time to make a difference in the pet’s behavior and anxiety. Also it is important that you price the pet accordingly to the time you spend to train that pet. If you are up front with the owner, communicating a solution to their problem, you may be surprised at the positive response you will get. It’s a win-win for both of you. | | | | Hello All!
do you offer a class on scheduling? or do you know if there will be a seminar in Lansing on how sch apt for someone else?
the problem I run into is that apt are scheduled for me and it never feels like there is enough time to get done what is asked...
Maybe Karen could help me with this...ha!
thanks for any input you could give me | | | Scheduling certainly can be a challenge, especially when someone else is doing it for you. Scheduling too heavy is one of the biggest causes of groomer burnout!
John Stazko has a fantastic appointment book on the market. This book is based on each pet being assigned a unit value. Larger dogs, challenging trims would receive a higher unit value. This alleviates most of your overbooking problems. You can get this appointment book at www.stazko.com
As for the up coming shows and the seminars they provide, unfortunately we don’t know that information until the catalogs are sent out. You can register to receive a catalog at www.Barkleigh.com
Good Luck!
| | | | I want to be a dog groomer it is my dream job.
I wanted to no how old you have to be to these classes so if you could let me no that would be just great! | | | Hi Kylie!
Thanks for your interest in Paragon School. The minimum age for our school is 16 and we would need you to take the Paragon Ability to Benefit test prior to acceptance. Professional pet grooming is a physically active profession. To excel in this profession, a prospective student needs to stay mentally focused, stand all day, have good dexterity with their hands and arms, and lift to forty pounds with relative ease. Give us a call to set up a tour of our facility! | | | | Question Index | |
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